Victoria Pendleton: ‘Desert luxury as I could never have imagined’

I couldn’t have imagined that my first experience of the Middle East would begin in AlUla. Arriving into the Ashar Valley from the humid temperature in city of Jeddah, as the dry desert temperature peaked at 39 degrees, I expected the heat to consume me. But, unexpectedly, I was captivated by the warm red hues that appeared suspended in the air, and as I gazed out on the landscapes they floated out to softly caress the gigantic coral-shaped rocks that soared up and pierced the cloudless sky. These giants of the desert were scattered haphazardly, sculpted by the wind and rain over millennia, to ultimately be as nature intended. The stillness and silence of it all surprised me. It was then that I realised I’d never experienced such a remarkable near-total absence of sound.

Banyan Tree AlUla

I had arrived at Banyan Tree AlUla. The sand-coloured canopied villas of this luxury desert resort are set between meandering pathways at the foot of an immense rock formation. Banyan Tree was everything that is welcoming about AlUla encapsulated in one – friendly, warm and luxurious. It was the week of the grand opening and guests and staff milled about hurriedly against the imposing stillness of the landscape.

My private villa was nestled in the mysterious desert setting, beautifully secluded and complete with an infinity pool, which looked across the valley towards the world’s largest mirrored building, Maraya. It was here that I’d make the most of my time. The morning light that fell on the water at dawn was nothing like I’d ever experienced. As I sank into the water and dawn’s light, the Banyan Tree’s synchronisation of nature and luxury felt exceptional.

Despite being pampered with total privacy, I did find my way to the resort’s main pool, a naturally treated rock pool set between sandstone mountain faces on either side. The view from here took my breath away. Additionally, the spa by the pool combines Asian practices with Arabian traditions expertly served by Banyan Tree’s therapists.

As I continued my exploration of the resort, I noticed that some of the traditional pottery and woven objects looked similar to those I’d seen at the local art school, Madrasat AdDeera, where the majority of students are local women. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Banyan Tree often commissions as many as 1,000 pieces at a time from Madrasat AdDeera for its interiors. I’d found similar pieces in AlJadidah, which is a neighbourhood adjacent to the 800-year-old, aptly named Old Town, where local artisans sell their sadu (weaved camel hair in geometric designs), pottery, jewellery, textiles and even products and oils from the native – some say miracle – plant, moringa.

Maraya

I could not experience the desert and not mention a mirage. Because even among the monumental natural stone structures within Ashar Valley, Maraya holds its own. The largest mirrored building in the world and an utter architectural marvel, it adds a touch of optical illusion to the AlUla experience. The building, despite its size, all but camouflages into the landscape, reflecting the surroundings, changing with the light and remaining undetectable at times, like a chameleon in the sand.

Its dream-like existence has a very real purpose. The venue is used as a concert hall with a steady roster of events, including AlUla winter and summer festivals running throughout the year. It is at Maraya that I enjoyed a private audience with the American singer Mariah Carey who was in attendance to celebrate the opening of Banyan Tree AlUla. The dining under the stars experience at rooftop restaurant Maraya Social was a notable highlight.

Habitas

Another luxurious resort sheltered within the valley is Habitas AlUla which has redefined sustainability; the entire resort could be removed leaving no trace, having been designed to protect the natural environment. Among the Habitas spaces are 14 contemporary art installations from previous editions of the popular Desert X AlUla site-responsive exhibition that dot the landscape.

Wellness, of course, is at the heart of it all. Yoga and meditation classes run throughout the day. Moon-shell meditation, which sounds particularly appealing, and candlelit outdoor meditation are both offered to guests. This holistic approach to wellness means the spa provides treatments using locally sourced natural ingredients.

Tama restaurant uses seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. The menu is full of vibrant vegetable dishes, perfect for vegans like me. Freshly pressed juices are used for mocktails at any time of day. One of my favourites was made using home-made ginger syrup.

“We are committed to using all parts of the fruit,” Joshua, the mixologist at Tama, explained to me. “So I preserve all the excess fruit and use them as garnish.” I wouldn’t have expected anything less, and it’s a sentiment which sums up so much of AlUla’s commitment to sustainability.

AlUla: an undiscovered masterpiece 

One of Arabia’s oldest cities and home to the Nabataean city of Hegra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the ancient region of AlUla is being rediscovered. Visitors to this historic crossroads, once on the incense route, its pristine desert oasis and monumental landscapes, will be among the first to discover 200,000 years of largely unexplored human history and successive ancient civilisations - a place where archaeological mysteries are still being uncovered today.

For more inspiration, visit experiencealula.com